Hello and welcome to my model engineering workshop !
Welcome to the world of model engineering, a much more rewarding occupation than vegetating in front of the telly every day.
Model engineering – an all absorbing pastime for mechanically minded individuals that offers endless challenges and enormous satisfaction with the successful completion of each and every project. Start with something simple like Elmer’s #25 wobbler and as your skills and confidence grow move on to more complex challenges. Believe me, the satisfaction you gain when your first simple steam engine bursts into life is just as great as when your first model internal combustion engine fires up.
In the days when I displayed my model engines at steam rallies and country shows it was clear that whilst there was a great deal of interest in model engineering, there was also much uncertainty on how to make a start. These were some of the questions I was frequently asked.
“Did you make these engines yourself ?”
“Did you work from a kit ?”
“Where do you get the plans ?”
“How much does it cost to get started ?”
So this page has been created for you, to try to answer these basic questions and from this you may be able to decide if model engineering might be for you.
Assuming you already have a garage or well insulated shed investing in the equipment necessary to make a start is likely to cost a minimum of £800. You could spend a lot more than this and many people do but the following should get you under way. You would no doubt add further equipment and tooling as you progress but this should provide some idea of scale of setup costs.
On the financial front the good news is that once you have a reasonable set up the cost of building models is relatively low. Plans are quite often freely available and whilst the cost of materials is always rising buying bar stock is reasonably affordable.If you really get the model engineering bug you will soon want to add a milling machine to your workshop and with tooling you are looking at maybe a further £700 to £800. I would advise against buying secondhand as the savings are not likely to be significant and you could finish up wasting your hard earned money with worn out or damaged equipment.
You could buy castings from which you can make model steam engines but don’t make the mistake of thinking these are an easy option as the reverse can be true. This is due to lack of datum lines from which to measure from. These casting kits are very expensive and replacing castings that you may damage even more so. My only exception is that I do buy cast flywheels for my larger scratch built models.
Elmer's #2 Twin Wobbler (left) alongside Elmer's #25 Single Wobbler. Excellent engines for newbies to the world of model engineering.
The other resource that will play a major part in deciding if model engineering is for you is time. Whilst the simpler oscillating type engines can be built in a few days you should consider weeks and months to build the more complex engines. Experienced engineers who build scale traction engines for example measure their build time in years. My advice would be to start with something modest like Elmers #25 Wobbler which is featured on here under Starter Projects and this excellent little engine can normally be built in a matter of days and without the need for a milling machine, desirable but not essential.
Other options which may enable you to sample model engineering before making a decision are, in theory, part time model engineering courses but these are now few and far between. The other is to join a local model engineering club but despite their acclamations I wonder just how much they do welcome and make total beginners feel at ease. If my assumptions on this latter point are wrong I would love to hear from any Model Engineering Clubs who can provide the help and hands on guidance which beginners are seeking.
Please remember this site is designed with the beginner in mind – there are plenty of other sites for the experienced engineer. If you would like any specific advice please get in touch via email and I will try to help.
remove the obvious bit john(spam)@start-model-engineering.co.uk
One very important note please do not underestimate the need to pay due respect to health and safety. A lathe will remove flesh and bone just as easily as metal. Avoid loose clothing, long hair, jewellery or anything else than can be dragged into revolving machinery.
My Background
Let me introduce myself – my name is John Somers and I am very much a late arrival on the model engineering scene. I have no career background in engineering though I have always had an underlying interest in all things mechanical. I restored the first of several motorbikes when I was 14, I’ve rebuilt an MG sports car, restored numerous antique wall and longcase clocks and even dabbled at restoring vintage clarinets. My long standing participation with motorcycling came to an end five or six years ago and it was then that my thoughts turned to the possibilities of model engineering.
The hours spent in the workshop seem to fly by as you are absorbed with the challenges of your latest project.
So, what qualifies me to develop a website aimed at up and coming model engineers. Not a great deal apart from a fantastic apprenticeship under the guidance of John (Bogstandard) Moore known to many model engineers as Bogs and who is kindly adding some content to this site. In the space of less than three years through Bog’s help and encouragement I have learnt so much. Not only is Bogs a superb and ingenious engineer he has that rare gift of being able to convey his thoughts with clarity and humour.
When I took my first tentative steps into the world of model engineering I was hungry for information to help me get started. I bought the magazines, visited exhibitions and scoured the internet but I found it all very confusing.I didn’t even know what questions I should be asking. Then I had the good fortune to meet up with Bogs and slowly but surely I gained the knowledge and skills to make progress.
So this site is clearly not written by a skilled and experienced engineer but rather by someone who as a newbie has made some progress and had a lot of fun and satisfaction along the way. If it helps others to make a start and get that first engine up and running then I shall be well pleased.
It was early in 2007 that I bought myself a mini-lathe and armed with Stan Bray’s plans for a ‘simple’ steam engine I started my first project. The fact that the engine ran at all was due more to the forgiving nature of small model steam engines than any skill on my part.
It was at this early stage that I realised that steam is not essential to run steam engines – compressed air will do just as well. In fact, in my opinion, compressed air is far better. My first engine was run on a small ‘cheapo’ tyre inflator. Building boilers is not easy and can be downright dangerous so my advice is to steer well clear, at least in your early days. You will have enough of a challenge making the engine, let alone constructing a boiler.
Any questions ?
Well I hope you find my website of interest. Even if you don’t build any of the projects featured you may find some of the methods I have used of interest. If you have any specific questions that you think I may be able to help you with then please email me at (remove the obvious bit) john(spam)@start-model-engineering.co.uk
I also welcome any comments or suggestions you may have on this site and your photographs are always welcome for possible inclusion.
john what are your thaughts on leveling a lathe ie bed defelection
I have not had any problems in levelling my lathes, the first simply rested on a level workbench and I bought my current machine complete with lathe stand so levelling has not been an issue and therefore I am unable to advise you.
John
Hi
If the owner of the site would allow
I have for sale an as new profiform 200 basic set with extra punch holders.
This is an extremely rare item as no uk distributor now exists, and its condition makes it even more special.
Once again, sorry for the intrusion, please ignore if not interested
Kev.
Anyone looking for a sheet metal bending and punching press ? Take a look at
I John
I have just baught a plan for a turret tool holder
the plan seams straigth forward except for the protruding lug on the rear.How do i machine this rear plate leaving the lug at the 20dg angle.
Regards Ray
Hello Ray
I am finding it difficult to picture the problem and can only think that perhaps you may need to resort to the mill rather than the lathe to remove any unwanted metal. Perhaps there are others out there who may have a better understanding of Ray’s problem ?
John
Mr Somers,
I am new to machining and am curious as to how you double the size of one of Elmer’s engines. I assume all dimensions are simply doubled but how do you determine the sizes of nuts and bolts?
Thank you for a VERY informative site.
Hello Mitchell
I would suggest before doubling the size of one of Elmers engines you try increasing by just 50% which really is quite a big leap in size. You can get some impression of this from Elmer’s Mill Engine on ‘My Engines’ page. Instead of automatically increasing the size of fasteners by 50% consider increasing the number of fasteners on say a cylinder head or valve chest. In my view this can give a more authentic look and in terms of size and spacing of fasteners ‘if it looks right it will be right’. When increasing the number of fasteners do check that new hole locations don’t interfere with steam passage ways, etc. Where practical I do advocate the use of studding and nuts for better holding power whilst avoiding of stripped threads. This also looks more authentic than bolt heads, in my opinion.
John
Thank you, sir. I think this is a hobby that will keep this 80 year old quite busy. Thanks again.
John great site I have been model engineering for over 40 years with 5 loco’s under my belt but still regard myself as a newby, there is always something new to learn. could I encourage readers to join there local SMEE club there will be the grumpy old bleep who is allways pontificateing but when you ask a question will say something like it’s for me to know and you to find out (to embarrased to admit he also don’t know)I have fun asking them what they have recently built. Oh boy you will find that they urgently need to talk to someone else. but you will also find lots of people more than willing to help you. Some inviting you to there workshop some will happily come to you to give advise.
Bob
Thanks Bob. If you’ve been model engineering for over 40 years so I’m afraid you are far too overqualified to be a newbie compared to say me who has been butchering metal for a little over 5 minutes. It’s good to hear that SMEE clubs would welcome beginners – readers please note ! Thanks again Bob and for your kind comments.
John
Hello, I am selling the contents of a model engineers workshop, with lathe and grinders, lots of stuff. Wondered if you or you knew anyone that would be interested? Many thanks Amanda
Hello Amanda
You should by now have received an email from me with one or two suggestions.
John
Hi John,
I notice you are a user of small lathes. I have an old Unimat SL, purchased from a catalog in the mid 1960′s, it is a great little machine considering it’s size and is capable of incredibly accurate work. What I need is a supplier of the small round rubber belts for this machine and cannot seem to find anyone who have spares for a machine that old, as the new Unimats of today are nothing like mine, and have modern toothed belts, CNC, and all the latest technology. any suggestions?. Regards Brian
Hello Brian
My first port of call would be a power transmission company like BSL (Bearing Services Ltd) – there’s a branch in most towns. take your lathe with you and they should be able to supply a belt of the correct specification or make one up for you. I think there’s some belting called Polybelt which is bought by the length and can be butt welded without too much difficulty. If this doesn’t solve your problem I would suggest you try an industrial sewing machine spares company as I believe round rubber belts are a common source of power transmission. Good luck and let me know how you get on.
John
Use EBAY type EMCO in the top…..there are a few suppliers of emco belts
Brian you were looking for betls to use on your Unimat SL. I have the same mini lathe and I use “O” rings available from most motor car spares shops. They work fine and do last a long time.
hello sir,
i came across your website…. found it extremely useful and interesting . i am a pre final year production engineer graduate at NIT JALANDHAR. would u help me out by suggesting few projects related to automobile engineering for a beginner like me .
Thanks and Regards from India !!
Hi Harkaram
It is difficult for me to advise you on a specific project as so much depends on your abilities and the workshop equipment which you have available. You could start with on of Elmers simple oscillating engines or if you want something more challenging you could try a slide valve engine.
Best wishes for your studies and future career.
John
Hi John, Just discovered your website, it seems very interesting.I have some time on my hands at the moment following heart surgery and have been getting back in the workshop. I am not a professional engineer and just spend time repairing mechanical things when time away from work allows.However i think it may be time to start building something and would welcome any suggestions you may have. I have a Myford ml7 and a chinese milling machine and a few other items.Regards Steve
Hello Steve
Well I get the impression you know your way around a lathe and a milling machine so really if you want to start building something (as opposed to maintenance type projects) I would suggest one of Elmers small steam engines. I’d suggest you go for a simple oscillator as these can be built and up and running within a few days. This early success is very encouraging and will almost spur you on to more challenging projects. The slide valve engines are a bigger project and do take longer to construct. I particularly like Elmers Mill Engine and built 50% up on plan size is very satisfying visually and also in the way it runs. Hopefully you can find one or two ideas to inspire you from my site.
Best wishes for a good recovery from your heart op. I believe model engineering is an ideal pastime for many of those with health problems. It doesn’t have too many physical demands and mentally it takes the mind away from the anxieties associated with health issues.
Anyway best wishes and perhaps you will let me know how you get on.
John
Hi John
Just wanted to add my thanks to the many you get….
I live in New Zealand and have just started out in the hobby – finding information locally is difficult unless you have time to join a club – my 2.5 hour commute to work & back home puts that out of the question.
I have found your site both fantastic for information but also for inspiration. As my ‘second ever’ project I gave the ‘glow in the dark keyfob’ a go…..It’s not quite a work of art but I am reasonably happy with it – at least it went together!!!
Thanks and keep up the great work
Scott
Scott,
I was just reading through all the fantastic thank you’s to John for his let’s face it, quite brilliant site! My eyes were drawn towards this….
“As my ‘second ever’ project I gave the ‘glow in the dark keyfob’ a go…..It’s not quite a work of art but I am reasonably happy with it – at least it went together!!!”
Now all I can think of is…. Where’s the picture?! :-)
If you don’t want it published that’s ok. But could you please send a copy to John?
I am always interested in what others make from my little offerings :-)
So glad you gave it a go. Good luck with your next project.
Ralph.
Just bought myself a used lathe, but its covered in oil and muck I have tried various cleaning products but the are not cutting it,( joke ) any idears on a good solvent…would like to converse with any one with a EMCO COMPACT 5…not cnc.
DaveC
Hi Dave
If it was me I’d try paraffin and a stiff brush or in severe cases a drop of unleaded petrol would shift the most tenacious muck. I frequently use brake cleaning fluid in aerosol form (try Halfords) for cleaning away grease and oil.
Anyone out there with an EMCO COMPACT 5 ?
John
I have a Emco Compact 5 lathe as well as the milling attachment and most of the accessories.
I am located in Amherst, NH, USA
Hello John,
Not sure if this is a question for you or Bogs, but first of all thank you for a wonderful web site that inspires a 55 year old that it’s not too late to start model engineering. After attending Alexander Palace last weekend for inspiration on choosing a mini lathe, the general opinion seemed to be that if I wanted to build steam engines and turn mild steel, cast iron and especially stainless, a mini lathe just would not cope and that I needed to upgrade my plans. I notice that you use the DB8VS and I was actually looking at the DB10VS. I did read an article by Keith Appleton who said that some years he needed to upgrade his lathe when completing a part finished 5″ Black Five as the lathe motor did not have enough power.
I know I’m being a bit cheeky in asking but I really would value your opinion(s) as someone who has actually been there and continues to ‘do it’.
Regards,
Paul.
Hello Paul
Whilst it is possible to build steam engines utilising the materials you mention on a mini lathe there is no doubt life does become easier with a lathe that has a bit more muscle. I have found my DBV8S to be more than adequate and I often up my build sizes by 50%.
Certainly at 55 you are still a spring chicken. I was in my late sixties when I started and that was with zero experience in model engineering. Go for it and good luck. Let me know if I can help you with any info.
John
Hello John, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I would also like to thank you VERY much for finding the time to maintain this superb website. It is so rare to find someone wanting to help newcomers without any ulterior motive. The lathe isn’t going to appear until later in the year but I will definitely let you know how I get on. Once again, thank you.
Thanks Paul only too pleased to help.
John
Hi John
What a wonderful web site this is.I found it following your comments on my model flying thread.
The layout and ease of navigation,and content make it compulsive without being complicated.
Happy new year
Tom.
Thanks Tom for your kind comments, makes it all worthwhile.
Happy New Year to you and keep up the inspirational work on designing affordable fun planes. Any model flyers reading this will find a wealth of info at
John
Hi, a very interesting website, and I wondered whether any of your contributors could give me some information about a little “puzzle” that my father made some years ago. It is a cube within a cube within a cube, made in aluminium as a practice piece for some other project.He made it on his Myford, but I think it could also be made on a milling machine.Any information would be most welcome. I have worked out how to make a cube within a cube, but the third one appears to be a little more testing. Thanks for your site, and any information you can give me. Dave
Hi Dave
Well that’s an interesting one and hopefully someone out there may be able to reveal the secret. Perhaps if you emailed me one or two pics that might help in resolving the mystery.
John
Dave-
I believe what you’re referring to is called a Turner’s Cube. A quick Google search should confirm if it the same object and lead to some information on how one is made.
John-
Great website! Lots of good information and interesting projects. Thank you.
Hi, thanks to Seb and yourself for the information, it is indeed a “Turner’s Cube”, identified as suggested, by google reference. I am wondering how to upload pictures of it to you, as I would like you to have a look at it, you never know it may spark a spate of them. Also, I wondered whether there was a limit to the number of cubes that may be fashioned from a suitably sized block. Again, a very interesting and informative site, thank you and long may you continue. Dave
Dave
I have sent you an email with info on sending pics.
John
Just a reminder to one and all that there is a ME show at Alexander Palace North London in January
Regards
DaveC
Hi John
Hope you can give me some advice.
I trained in engineering way back in 76, after leaving school. Then left the trade completely in 78 as I Decided to join the RAF.
I would like to start again, in a purely hobby form.
My problem is, i live in a second floor three bedroom flat, with limited space.
With that in mind, could you advice me on a metal lathe/milling combo for doing small projects.
Ideally not to heavy, as i will have to store away after use (wife insists).
Hope you can help
Regards
Dave
Hi Dave
Take a look at the Proxon range of machine tools available via Chronos Engineering – click on ad in left column on my site and you’ll get there. You could even take advantage of a saving of 5% on purchases by using the promo code.
Other makes to consider are Sherline and Unimat. A quick Google will find you their websites.
Good luck and let me know how you get on.
John
Thanks for the advice John, will look at all three.
I had been looking at the Unimat 4, but I believe it is no longer produced.
I will be going to the Exhibition at Sandown, so will form a better idea of what I’m after.
It will be a Christmas present from the wife, so I have plenty time to decide.
In the mean time, I have book marked your site. As from what I have seen so far, makes me sure I will be a regular visitor.
Once again, many thanks for your advice. will let you know what i decide on.
Kind regards.
Dave
please could someone tell me where to buy retail size 60 rubber bands – the distributors will only sell in bulk and say they supply engineering firms
thanks
Gill
Any ideas anyone ? Are you in the UK Gill if so have you tried info@rubberbands.co.uk. It does beg the question as to the application requiring size 60 rubber bands but that’s just me being nosey.
John
Hi John
Thanks for your very informative web site.
I am in engineering but am a newy at model engineering and “doing my nut” trying to drill the flanges accurately for Elmer’s grashopper beam engine.I have managed to mark out and center punch the flanges reasonablby accurately +/- 3thou. but the drilling seems to be guided by some evil spirit.
Can you direct me to some tips on this proceedure or share some of your wisdom. thanks in anticipation. Tony
Hi Tony
I tend to rely on the digital read out system that I have installed on my milling machine. In fact the main reason I installed the system was in order to position drill bits and cutters with pinpoint accuracy. In the absence of such a setup I think you will find some very sound words of wisdom on the subject from George Neill, a retired engineer. Go to ‘Helpful Hints’ on the main menu and look at part 3.
John
Hi John,
I came across your site via John Moore and wanted to say I really appreciate your approach to encourage other people to have a go at model engineering.
I share your enthusiasm for helping others and I produced a plan for a simple oscilating engine which only uses a 3-jaw lathe chuck and has no brazing operations. The plans are at
http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/simpleoscil/simpleoscil.htm
Let me know what you think.
I have been running my site for many years and in that time the use of Blogs and forms has expanded massively and I have not kept up.
So I am planning to engage in some forums to see what I can learn.
I also wondered if you wanted to exchange links. Perhaps my site content is too diverse, but in any case I will link to yours becuase I like the content.
Keep up the good work.
Best regards, Steve.
PS – nice to see some of Elmer’s engines on here too :-)
Hi john,
thanks to your site i have got the bug, i am about to purchase a lathe and start a life long hobby
saying that i am already 43years young and picking a lathe is harder than i thought, as there are a few mini lathes out there in my price range.
i look forward to learning more from you and your site and hopefully in the near futer hope to start building model steam engines.
all the best from Wales
Lyndon
Hy Lyndon
Great to hear from you. Don’t worry too much over choosing the right lathe as most mini lathes are pretty much the same. I suggest you choose a metric version rather than imperial. I much prefer working in metric and choice of fasteners is much greater and less expensive.
I shall look forward to hearing how you progress and seeing pics of your first engine.
Best wishes
John
Hi John,
Love your web-site!
Do you know if there is a way to turn square stock in a 3 jaw lathe chuck.
Regards
Mike
Adelaide Australia
Hi Mike
No you have me beat on that one. I guess you will have to dig deep and get a 4 jaw, make sure you get one with independent jaws, they are much more versatile.
John
There is actually a way to turn square stock in a 3-jaw chuck. It is done by turning a bush with a hole that accepts the square stock. Then split the bush once to be able to clamp the square stock securely for work.
Since I cannot post images here, you need to use the following link and copy-paste it into your web browser.
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/rundfyrkant2.gif
It shows a small piece of square stock and at the end a round ring which is the bush. This is only a 12 mm square piece, but for larger parts the bush needs to be heavier to be rigid enough I think.
Nice web site!
BR
/Peter
W ell, there you go. You learn something everyday.
John
Ok I’ll give the split bush a try before I order a 4 jaw chuck.
Thankyou.
Sir, Thank you for the Site it is very helpful. I would like to push out for the starting Engineer if you need a Lathe or Milling machine http://www.amadeal.co.uk is a really great place to start they are Very low cost for their new machines and after speaking to Hugh at Amadeal I can’t say enough about him and his service before and after purchase.
Hello Roy
Yes I would enforce your observation on Hugh at Amadeal. I bought my first mini lathe from Hugh, an excellent price and customer service both before and after the sale was excellent. Amadeal are listed on the Resources/Links page.
John
Hello,
I want to install a bearing on the pivot pin of a motorcycle clutch lever.I assume it would be a caged needle bearing to take a radial load.The bore size can be anywhere from 3/8 to about 3/16 as I am making both the lever and perch out of stainless.The trouble is I want to get the smallest size outside dia. bearing possible but without it failing prematurely.Ive tried the sites of brg. houses on choosing the right one but its all engineering talk.Any suggestions?
Hello Chris
One source of supply that may well have the bearing you require is Arc Euro Trade
John
Great Site John, thanks for setting it up, going to be very useful indeed.
You are very welcome and I’m pleased you find the site of interest.
John
Great site John!
Hi John,
I’ve just found your site, what a great source of information. I mainly do woodturning and have bought a mini-lathe to help make tooling. I’ve had a Unimat DB200 since 1971 so will also be upgrading that. I’m approaching retirement and looking forward to spending more time in the workshop. Thanks for putting together such a great site, I might even turn to the “dark side” and start with some simple engine designs.
Regards,
Mike
Hello Mike and welcome to the world of model engineering. I hope you put that mini lathe to good use and I look forward to receiving pics of your first steam engines. Do let me know if you need any help or any questions answering.
Best wishes on your forthcoming retirement – now the fun begins !
John
Hi Neil,
I think you are doing about the best thing you could ever do in later life. Model engineering not only keeps you active, but also taxes your mind and helps stop you turning into a couch potato. I am not saying it will keep you fit, as I found out a few years ago, but it does keep you agile in both body and mind.
I think I might be able to help you as I did with John. Unfortunately, I don’t want to put my email address onto a public forum, so if John can arrange to send it to you through this site, then please send me an email and also include your full postal address as well, then maybe we can set you onto the right track to achieve your dreams of what you want to do.
John (Bogstandard)
Hello John,
I couldn’t believe my luck, in finding your Website right now, since I’m about to re-start my hobbies after a 50 year lay-off.
I am now planning a 12 sqare metre, purpose built extension, with all the necesary tools and equipment for model making. My new worksop should be finished by this December, 2011.
I followed a career as a Manufacturing Engineer, having served an apprenticeship as a fitter/turner in the Aero Industry. Now fully retired at age 70, I am keen to return to my youthful pastime of aeromodelling and model engineering. I intend make a twin cylinder model steam engine, required to power a RC scale model paddle boat. Also I shall renovate my 1959, 250cc, Royal Enfield Crusader Sports motorcycle, which I have owned since new.
Unfortunately, I missed this year’s Model Engineering Exhibition, and am finding it difficult to locate firms near London who supply model making machine tools and equipment.
My knowlege of modelling is well out of date, so I need to get up to speed fairly soon. The advice of a hobby enthusiast, such as yourself, is invaluable, so I would be much obliged for any imformation you can offer me, including titles of any publications I should read.
I am vitually starting from scratch, and aim to chronicle the equipping and setting up of my new workshop, thus providing information which may be of benefit to other hobby enthusiasts.
Thanks for your Website, maybe I shall hear from other modellers too.
Regards,
Neil
Hello Neil
Congratulations on your retirement and welcome to SME.
There are a couple of books that come to mind that I think you will find of interest. First, a general introduction I would recommend Model Engineering, A Foundation Course by Peter Wright. This will provide you with much information including the setting up of a new workshop.
The other book is written by John ‘Bogs’ a well know model engineer who was (and still is} my mentor and who contributes material to my site from time to time. Bogs has written an absolute gem of a book which was first published as a series of postings on the Paddleduck Forum which deals with the construction of a twin cylinder self starting steam engine designed for model marine use. I believe Bogs built a version of this engine for a paddle boat. This 113 page book can be downloaded free of charge from machinistblog.
Apart from a step by step guide to building this engine which sounds ideal for your purpose there is much information on machining techniques. Tale a look, you won’t be disappointed.
Please keep in touch and let me know how you get on. Just let me know if you feel IU can help you further.
John
Hi Johnboy,
The tension spring version of the Micro DRO looks great – a very neat package. Have you considered gluing a small magnet to the end of the probe to do away with the springs?
Jimbo
That’s a brilliant idea Jimbo. You’ve just designed Mk lll.
Johnboy
Johnboy, I can feel a Micro DRO (or two) coming on. What a great idea. Thanks for putting it up on your website and thanks to Rob for a great idea.
Jimbo
Hi John,
Great site. Excellent engine designs and build.
I might try some of those.
I saw your write up on my Micro DRO concept when checking the visitor logs and it is very nicely done.
I like the way you have cleaned up the original design very neatly, and I would like to put a link across to your site if that’s OK with you.
It appears the little DRO has caused quite a stir on the net and I expect dealers are scratching their heads wondering why sales are up.
Cheers
Rob
Hi Rob
Great to hear from you. Yes, the thought went through my head that the sudden global rise in demand for tyre depth indicators must have aroused a good deal of curiosity amongst eBay traders.
By all means add a link to my site and I will do likewise in my ‘Resources’ section as there is much content on your site that will be of interest to many of my regular visitors.
Best wishes
John
Ted,
If you can use stainless instead, there are lots of places, this is about one of the cheapest
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?Diameter=2MM&Thread=METRIC&Length=10MM&Filtered=True&PageID=1&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=59236&fType=Fasteners&search=Show+Items
John
I am trying to find a supplier of high tensile m2 socket head bolts about 10 mm long.
I have searched the web in vain, can you suggest a supplier. Years ago I bought some in U.S.A. but have lost the suppliers address
Regards
Ted Horne
Hi Ted
All I can suggest is that you try contacting model fixings they may be able to help.
John
John,
I wince when I look at how much you have put at the top to show how much to get started.
I must have about 20 times that amount knocking about my shop, but it has been collected over about 40 years and a lot of it I got for nothing from various sources.
This is just that sort of hobby, it grows gradually over the years as you learn to do new things and want to try out new ideas. Start small and grow with it as you gain experience.
I have made some real blunders over the years, paying out large amounts of hard earned cash for things that were of no use to me at all, only to be given away or sold for peanuts to someone who would make good use of them. I must have wasted thousands over the years.
I just wish that sites like this were about as I was growing with my hobby, a lot of those expensive mistakes would never have been made. I could have just followed the advice given rather than just jumping in with both feet.
Every bit of equipment or tooling now has to be fully justified before spending my ill gotten gains.
In fact, at one time, I would buy all my bits and bobs, but now I am finding it is usually a lot cheaper to make my own versions of the tooling or machines I want, they usually do a better job as well, it just takes a little longer, that’s all.
Yes Bogs I can well imagine you wincing having seen your superbly equipped workshop with all that specialised tooling.
But, as you know, I try to provide information that will help beginners make a realistic start. Based on my own experience I was making my first engines well within the figures shown above. I reckon my overall expenditure to date including my mill, additional tooling and a wide variety of bits and bobs is not much over £3,000 and that’s over a four year period. For me I can’t imagine any other pastime that offers so much reward for so little outlay.
John