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Elmer’s #32 part five

Detail view of linkage showing connection of piston rod, connecting rod to guide arms. A touch of Loctite on the screw threads should hold everything nicely in place on assembly.

Detail view of linkage showing connection of piston rod, connecting rod to guide arms. A touch of Loctite on the screw threads should hold everything nicely in place on assembly.

With the cylinder and steam chest completed the next stage was the fabrication of linkages, eccentric and flywheel. Most of these items are relatively straightforward though it pays dividends to take your time and make each component as precise as possible. It’s tempting to rush the final stages but to me this is a mistake. Hurried workmanship now can so easily result in hours of frustration when your engine refuses to run.

One problem with Elmer’s plans is the quality, or lack of, of the pictures featured in the build notes. At first I had a struggle trying to sort out the detail of the linkage relating to the connection of piston rod and connecting rod. I think I have resolved the dilemma and the picture on the right shows my final result. I hope this is of some help to those of you following this build. I was also unsure on Elmers method of retaining the connecting links to the arms and you will see my solution in the gallery of build pictures.

By the way, with building my engine 50% up on Elmer’s plans I had to source a 4.5″ flywheel. Surfing the net took me to martins models I can highly recommend these top quality flywheels, beautifully cast with an excellent selection of styles and sizes. At the moment the $20 flywheels come into the country without attracting customs and excise duty which currently applies on items exceeding £18.00 in value.

So with a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel I set about the final stages of completing Elmers #32

It was at this stage in the proceedings that I couldn’t resist putting some air through the engine to see if there were any signs of life and I am pleased to report that after just a few minor adjustments my new creation burst into life !

Fly cutting

flytool1

This is a short article on how to impart a seam free, mirror-like finish, to larg(ish) areas of metal. You will also discover how to cover yourself, your workshop and your mug of coffee in pretty snowlike flakes of glittering metal. I am referring to flycutting.

As confessed elsewhere I am not a great enthusiast of grinding my own cutting tools but the opposite is true of grinding up cutters for flycutting. In my case I bought myself a set of three flycutters from RDG Tools for around £15.00. From the teachings of John ‘Bogs’ Moore I learnt how to grind up the HSS blanks supplied with my flycutting set.

At this stage I can do no better than reproduce an article prepared by ‘Bogs’.

Here is a quick C-o-C to show you the tool in graphical format (getting technical words now as well).

The first one is showing the 1/4 round, second is the back rake and the third would be classed as bottom rake.
You actually grind 1 & 3 at the same time, then put 2 on last.

Number 4 is how you finally put a razor edge on the tool. I use an Arkansas stone with oil, but you could use a diamond lap with water to stop it clogging, or just a fine emery stone with a touch of oil. This is also how you touch it up during use.
If you ever have a go at some real tough stuff, you will most probably end up with a flat on your main radius. In that situation you have to do the 1 - 3 regrind to get the curve back.

The angles are non critical, but I put a fairly large one on so that it can easily cope with a range of materials. In fact, if you were cutting brass all the time, you could do away with #2 (back rake) completely.

What I have done this morning is go into the shop and ground one up to show you a close up of the finished article.
It was a little dangerous trying to grind with my left hand, keeping one eye on the tool, and take a piccy using my other hand and eyeball. I know I am adaptable, but not that much. So what I have done is ground it up, and flatted out non essential bits with a black marker.
These pics are as they came off the wheel without final sharpening.

Actually the bit marked top is really the forwards facing part of the cutter, I just marked it up that way to help with the grinding sequence. I just hope I haven’t confused you all.

This is the way I grind for getting a good material removal plus nice surface finish. Just remember, start wacking this thru a bit of tough stuff,

Remember, you can click on each picture for a larger image