Comments for Start Model Engineering http://start-model-engineering.co.uk A friendly place full of model engineering help & advice for beginners Sun, 05 Feb 2012 10:35:00 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comment on by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-43479 John Sun, 05 Feb 2012 10:35:00 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-43479 Thanks Paul only too pleased to help. John Thanks Paul only too pleased to help.

John

]]> Comment on Mini Lathe by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/minilathe/#comment-43478 John Sun, 05 Feb 2012 10:33:52 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=203#comment-43478 Hi Brian Yes Brian you are quite correct in that most mini-lathes are belt driven with a lever to switch between two settings, high and low. Running speed is then via a variable electronic control usually a digital display showing r.p.m. A typical mini-lathe weighs around 38 kg and is just about 'liftable' by an average person though to be honest I doubt if I could lift that today. I suggest you take a look at Chester Tools 'Conquest' mini-lathe, the specification will answer many of your questions. John Hi Brian

Yes Brian you are quite correct in that most mini-lathes are belt driven with a lever to switch between two settings, high and low. Running speed is then via a variable electronic control usually a digital display showing r.p.m.

A typical mini-lathe weighs around 38 kg and is just about ‘liftable’ by an average person though to be honest I doubt if I could lift that today.

I suggest you take a look at Chester Tools ‘Conquest’ mini-lathe, the specification will answer many of your questions.

John

]]> Comment on Mini Lathe by brian corrigan http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/minilathe/#comment-43417 brian corrigan Sat, 04 Feb 2012 16:26:41 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=203#comment-43417 Hello, I'm in the market for a mini lathe also. Am I right in observing that the trend is towards belt driven/variable speed lathes instead of multiple gear changing ? Is there any difference in using dc brushless motors as distinct from standard ac induction motors.? Portability is vital to me - I have a small workshop and don't want to have to use a forklift. ! Can I ask what you consider is the maximum weight that could be handled by a single person. ? Hello,
I’m in the market for a mini lathe also. Am I right in observing that the trend is towards belt driven/variable speed lathes instead of multiple gear changing ? Is there any difference in using dc brushless motors as distinct from standard ac induction motors.?
Portability is vital to me – I have a small workshop and don’t want to have to use a forklift. ! Can I ask what you consider is the maximum weight that could be handled by a single person. ?

]]> Comment on by Paul Harrison http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-43357 Paul Harrison Fri, 03 Feb 2012 22:20:28 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-43357 Hello John, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I would also like to thank you VERY much for finding the time to maintain this superb website. It is so rare to find someone wanting to help newcomers without any ulterior motive. The lathe isn't going to appear until later in the year but I will definitely let you know how I get on. Once again, thank you. Hello John, thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I would also like to thank you VERY much for finding the time to maintain this superb website. It is so rare to find someone wanting to help newcomers without any ulterior motive. The lathe isn’t going to appear until later in the year but I will definitely let you know how I get on. Once again, thank you.

]]> Comment on by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-43033 John Tue, 31 Jan 2012 13:25:27 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-43033 Hi Dave If it was me I'd try paraffin and a stiff brush or in severe cases a drop of unleaded petrol would shift the most tenacious muck. I frequently use brake cleaning fluid in aerosol form (try Halfords) for cleaning away grease and oil. Anyone out there with an EMCO COMPACT 5 ? John Hi Dave

If it was me I’d try paraffin and a stiff brush or in severe cases a drop of unleaded petrol would shift the most tenacious muck. I frequently use brake cleaning fluid in aerosol form (try Halfords) for cleaning away grease and oil.

Anyone out there with an EMCO COMPACT 5 ?

John

]]> Comment on by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-43032 John Tue, 31 Jan 2012 13:19:30 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-43032 Hello Paul Whilst it is possible to build steam engines utilising the materials you mention on a mini lathe there is no doubt life does become easier with a lathe that has a bit more muscle. I have found my DBV8S to be more than adequate and I often up my build sizes by 50%. Certainly at 55 you are still a spring chicken. I was in my late sixties when I started and that was with zero experience in model engineering. Go for it and good luck. Let me know if I can help you with any info. John Hello Paul

Whilst it is possible to build steam engines utilising the materials you mention on a mini lathe there is no doubt life does become easier with a lathe that has a bit more muscle. I have found my DBV8S to be more than adequate and I often up my build sizes by 50%.

Certainly at 55 you are still a spring chicken. I was in my late sixties when I started and that was with zero experience in model engineering. Go for it and good luck. Let me know if I can help you with any info.

John

]]> Comment on by DaveC http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-42950 DaveC Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:52:23 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-42950 Just bought myself a used lathe, but its covered in oil and muck I have tried various cleaning products but the are not cutting it,( joke ) any idears on a good solvent...would like to converse with any one with a EMCO COMPACT 5...not cnc. DaveC Just bought myself a used lathe, but its covered in oil and muck I have tried various cleaning products but the are not cutting it,( joke ) any idears on a good solvent…would like to converse with any one with a EMCO COMPACT 5…not cnc.

DaveC

]]> Comment on by Paul Harrison http://start-model-engineering.co.uk#comment-42941 Paul Harrison Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:56:07 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-42941 Hello John, Not sure if this is a question for you or Bogs, but first of all thank you for a wonderful web site that inspires a 55 year old that it's not too late to start model engineering. After attending Alexander Palace last weekend for inspiration on choosing a mini lathe, the general opinion seemed to be that if I wanted to build steam engines and turn mild steel, cast iron and especially stainless, a mini lathe just would not cope and that I needed to upgrade my plans. I notice that you use the DB8VS and I was actually looking at the DB10VS. I did read an article by Keith Appleton who said that some years he needed to upgrade his lathe when completing a part finished 5" Black Five as the lathe motor did not have enough power. I know I'm being a bit cheeky in asking but I really would value your opinion(s) as someone who has actually been there and continues to 'do it'. Regards, Paul. Hello John,

Not sure if this is a question for you or Bogs, but first of all thank you for a wonderful web site that inspires a 55 year old that it’s not too late to start model engineering. After attending Alexander Palace last weekend for inspiration on choosing a mini lathe, the general opinion seemed to be that if I wanted to build steam engines and turn mild steel, cast iron and especially stainless, a mini lathe just would not cope and that I needed to upgrade my plans. I notice that you use the DB8VS and I was actually looking at the DB10VS. I did read an article by Keith Appleton who said that some years he needed to upgrade his lathe when completing a part finished 5″ Black Five as the lathe motor did not have enough power.
I know I’m being a bit cheeky in asking but I really would value your opinion(s) as someone who has actually been there and continues to ‘do it’.

Regards,

Paul.

]]> Comment on Lessons on The Lathe by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/tutorials/lessons-on-the-lathe/#comment-42468 John Wed, 25 Jan 2012 15:54:55 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-42468 wow, you'll have me blushing next ! Seriously though am pleased that you find the site so helpful. John wow, you’ll have me blushing next !

Seriously though am pleased that you find the site so helpful.

John

]]> Comment on Lessons on The Lathe by John Williams http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/tutorials/lessons-on-the-lathe/#comment-42186 John Williams Sun, 22 Jan 2012 09:33:19 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/#comment-42186 Thank you for creating such a great site and for posting the tutorials. Its definately the best site I've been to for Model Engineering Work. Best Wishes, John. Thank you for creating such a great site and for posting the tutorials.
Its definately the best site I’ve been to for Model Engineering Work.

Best Wishes, John.

]]> Comment on Setting Cutter Height by Bill http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/begin-with-bogs/top-tips-from-bogs-setting-cutter-height/#comment-41581 Bill Mon, 16 Jan 2012 11:12:59 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=2631#comment-41581 While serving my apprenticeship I was taught to centre the tool from the centre in the tailstock. While serving my apprenticeship I was taught to centre the tool from the centre in the tailstock.

]]> Comment on A mini project for your mini-lathe by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/2010/12/a-mini-project-for-your-mini-lathe/#comment-41567 John Mon, 16 Jan 2012 07:59:13 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?p=2459#comment-41567 Hi Ikka Fi r st of all my apologies for taking so long to answer your question. I normally answer such questions within hours not days ! Yes if memory serves me right the LEDs cope ok with the 6v supply. I expect you will have completed your torches by now. Take a look at the latest post on Ralph's Glow in the Dark key fob. No battery issues there ' John Hi Ikka

Fi r st of all my apologies for taking so long to answer your question. I normally answer such questions within hours not days !

Yes if memory serves me right the LEDs cope ok with the 6v supply. I expect you will have completed your torches by now. Take a look at the latest post on Ralph’s Glow in the Dark key fob. No battery issues there ‘

John

]]> Comment on Milling machines by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/milling-machines/#comment-41566 John Mon, 16 Jan 2012 07:51:15 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=441#comment-41566 Phil My understanding of this is that the 30mm is a recommendation beyond which the mill may be struggling and this could result in poor surface finish. More seriously there is a danger of damage to the nylon gear wheels in the drive train. A good reason to consider converting to belt drive which will slip rather than fail should you attempt a too deep a cut. Face mills with indexable cutters have increased in popularity over recent times as the low prices of far eastern imports make them an affordable option but I would be very wary in exceeding the manufacturers recommendation. However in my view fly cutters are still a viable choice for removal, surface finish and cost. With extreme care i see no reason why you could not exceed the 30mm recommendation with a very light cut to achieve a one pass finish. The only downside of fly cutting is that the workshop can finish up looking  like a winter wonderland particularly when working with aluminium. Are there any other views out there on this topic ? John Phil

My understanding of this is that the 30mm is a recommendation beyond which the mill may be struggling and this could result in poor surface finish. More seriously there is a danger of damage to the nylon gear wheels in the drive train. A good reason to consider converting to belt drive which will slip rather than fail should you attempt a too deep a cut.

Face mills with indexable cutters have increased in popularity over recent times as the low prices of far eastern imports make them an affordable option but I would be very wary in exceeding the manufacturers recommendation. However in my view fly cutters are still a viable choice for removal, surface finish and cost. With extreme care i see no reason why you could not exceed the 30mm recommendation with a very light cut to achieve a one pass finish.

The only downside of fly cutting is that the workshop can finish up looking  like a winter wonderland particularly when working with aluminium.

Are there any other views out there on this topic ?

John

]]> Comment on Milling machines by Phil Taylor http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/milling-machines/#comment-41546 Phil Taylor Mon, 16 Jan 2012 02:25:41 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=441#comment-41546 Hi John, I recently bought a Sieg SX2 Milling Machine that I believe has a similar specification to your Conquest. I noticed that it is rated as having a face mill capacity of 30mm. Does this mean that I shouldn't be using indexable cutters for facing larger than 30mm? If so how does this restriction apply to fly cutters? Cheers, Phil Hi John,

I recently bought a Sieg SX2 Milling Machine that I believe has a similar specification to your Conquest. I noticed that it is rated as having a face mill capacity of 30mm. Does this mean that I shouldn’t be using indexable cutters for facing larger than 30mm? If so how does this restriction apply to fly cutters?

Cheers,

Phil

]]> Comment on Begin with Bogs by Mike http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/begin-with-bogs/begin-with-bogs/#comment-41507 Mike Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:21:06 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=846#comment-41507 Hi I am a novice looking for a late which is able to 1. Cut a shallow, narrow groove in a 2 inch square 1/8 inch thick piece of copper at 1.25 inch dia and a second similar groove at 11/32 inch dia. 2. Skim a 11/32 inch dia x 5 inch length of brass tube 3. Turn a 2 inch square 1/8 inch thick piece of copper into a 11/32 inch dia. x 1/8 inch thick disc. It needs to be as small as possible to be used in a confined space. I wonder if most of the mini-lathes available will do this?@ Many thanks. Hi I am a novice looking for a late which is able to
1. Cut a shallow, narrow groove in a 2 inch square 1/8 inch thick piece of copper at 1.25 inch dia and a second similar groove at 11/32 inch dia.
2. Skim a 11/32 inch dia x 5 inch length of brass tube
3. Turn a 2 inch square 1/8 inch thick piece of copper into a 11/32 inch dia. x 1/8 inch thick disc.
It needs to be as small as possible to be used in a confined space. I wonder if most of the mini-lathes available will do this?@
Many thanks.

]]> Comment on MINI LATHE DRO by Frank Small http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/minilathe/micro-dro/#comment-41325 Frank Small Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:22:14 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=5163#comment-41325 Hi John, Thank you for your comments and is certainly a solution Maybe another way is to use the digital for the rough stuff and the dial for final cut. Regards frank Hi John,
Thank you for your comments and is certainly a solution
Maybe another way is to use the digital for the rough stuff and the dial for final cut.
Regards
frank

]]> Comment on MINI LATHE DRO by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/minilathe/micro-dro/#comment-41048 John Tue, 10 Jan 2012 14:26:08 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=5163#comment-41048 Hi Frank An interesting observation. Reminds me of the time a few years back when (almost by accident) I discovered to my alarm slight differences in read outs on my assortment of digital scales. Clearly this is not a desirable state of affairs but to achieve a higher level of accuracy could be both costly and too demanding for the home workshop operator. My way round this problem is normally to use the same digital scale, where critical, throughout a build project which will provide an acceptable degree of accuracy and fit between components. This in my view provides a sufficient level of accuracy for most of the work undertaken by individuals making a start in model engineering. There are digital scales available for fitment to lathes and milling machines but the cost of such refinement is probably more than the cost of the machines to which they are to be fitted. John Hi Frank
An interesting observation. Reminds me of the time a few years back when (almost by accident) I discovered to my alarm slight differences in read outs on my assortment of digital scales. Clearly this is not a desirable state of affairs but to achieve a higher level of accuracy could be both costly and too demanding for the home workshop operator.

My way round this problem is normally to use the same digital scale, where critical, throughout a build project which will provide an acceptable degree of accuracy and fit between components. This in my view provides a sufficient level of accuracy for most of the work undertaken by individuals making a start in model engineering.

There are digital scales available for fitment to lathes and milling machines but the cost of such refinement is probably more than the cost of the machines to which they are to be fitted.

John

]]> Comment on MINI LATHE DRO by Frank Small http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/machines-and-tooling/minilathe/micro-dro/#comment-41039 Frank Small Tue, 10 Jan 2012 13:08:37 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?page_id=5163#comment-41039 Hi What a great idea, I think that there is a bit of a problem with the linearity of the digital gauge.Checking against the dial on my Colchester Bantam. Here is a sample of the readings 0-0, 10-0.5, 20-0.97, 30-1.44, 50-2.4, 60-2.9,70-3.4,80-3.92, 90-4.44,100-4.98 Mid way there is a difference of 0.1. I suspect that the error is in the digital gauge rather than the screw. Does anyone have any ideas or where I can get a digital gauge that has proven reliable. It is very difficult to independanlly measure accuratly the movement of the cross slide. Thank You. Hi
What a great idea, I think that there is a bit of a problem with the linearity of the digital gauge.Checking against the dial on my Colchester Bantam. Here is a sample of the readings
0-0, 10-0.5, 20-0.97, 30-1.44, 50-2.4, 60-2.9,70-3.4,80-3.92, 90-4.44,100-4.98
Mid way there is a difference of 0.1. I suspect that the error is in the digital gauge rather than the screw. Does anyone have any ideas or where I can get a digital gauge that has proven reliable. It is very difficult to independanlly measure accuratly the movement of the cross slide.
Thank You.

]]> Comment on A mini project for your mini-lathe by Ilkka http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/2010/12/a-mini-project-for-your-mini-lathe/#comment-40974 Ilkka Mon, 09 Jan 2012 15:28:59 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?p=2459#comment-40974 Hi Ralph and John Thank you for very interesting and inspiring instructions on the mini torch. I am now planning to make a couple of these small marvels. You have used two 3 V batteries in series, producing 6 V. However, I am unable to find suitable 5 mm leds for 6 V voltage. Most leds have a nominal voltage of 3.2 V or so. Are the leds you used just 3.2 V ones and they just can cope the extra voltage or are they specified for higher voltages? Regards Ilkka Hi Ralph and John

Thank you for very interesting and inspiring instructions on the mini torch. I am now planning to make a couple of these small marvels.

You have used two 3 V batteries in series, producing 6 V. However, I am unable to find suitable 5 mm leds for 6 V voltage. Most leds have a nominal voltage of 3.2 V or so.

Are the leds you used just 3.2 V ones and they just can cope the extra voltage or are they specified for higher voltages?

Regards
Ilkka

]]> Comment on Glow in the dark keyfob by John http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/2012/01/glow-in-the-dark-keyfob/#comment-40968 John Mon, 09 Jan 2012 13:21:27 +0000 http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/?p=5242#comment-40968 I've made an acrylic version this morning. It's OK but would look a lot better just using the acrylic as an outer sleeve over the brass cage. May try one later ! John I’ve made an acrylic version this morning. It’s OK but would look a lot better just using the acrylic as an outer sleeve over the brass cage. May try one later !

John

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