Detail view of linkage showing connection of piston rod, connecting rod to guide arms. A touch of Loctite on the screw threads should hold everything nicely in place on assembly.

With the cylinder and steam chest completed the next stage was the fabrication of linkages, eccentric and flywheel. Most of these items are relatively straightforward though it pays dividends to take your time and make each component as precise as possible. It’s tempting to rush the final stages but to me this is a mistake. Hurried workmanship now can so easily result in hours of frustration when your engine refuses to run.

One problem with Elmer’s plans is the quality, or lack of, of the pictures featured in the build notes. At first I had a struggle trying to sort out the detail of the linkage relating to the connection of piston rod and connecting rod. I think I have resolved the dilemma and the picture on the right shows my final result. I hope this is of some help to those of you following this build. I was also unsure on Elmers method of retaining the connecting links to the arms and you will see my solution in the gallery of build pictures.

By the way, with building my engine 50% up on Elmer’s plans I had to source a 4.5″ flywheel. Surfing the net took me to martins models I can highly recommend these top quality flywheels, beautifully cast with an excellent selection of styles and sizes. At the moment the $20 flywheels come into the country without attracting customs and excise duty which currently applies on items exceeding £18.00 in value.

So with a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel I set about the final stages of completing Elmers #32

It was at this stage in the proceedings that I couldn’t resist putting some air through the engine to see if there were any signs of life and I am pleased to report that after just a few minor adjustments my new creation burst into life !

The 'heart' of Elmers vertical open column engine is nearing completion. Note the addition of bolt-on inlet and exhaust manifolds and additional bolts on steam chest cover.

This stage is concerned with the fabrication of the steam chest and air control valve. Built according to plan (enlarged by 50% from Elmer’s original). The only deviations relate to added detail in the form of six, in place of four, hold down bolts on the steam chest. The two additional bolts are dummies simply attached to the cover but, in my view, improves the overall appearance. The other modification is the addition of inlet and exhaust manifolds which again add a little authentic detail.

A further point worth commenting on is the fabrication of the valve rod which was made in two pieces - rod and attachment clevis. Easier to produce in two pieces and also provides some adjustment should this be required during the final setting up.

Now that the ‘heart’ of the engine has been completed the remaining work concerns the fabrication of the running gear - linkages, crank and flywheel. Doesn’t sound too much but will inevitably take longer than I think. Domestic issues will mean there will be a break of several days before production re-commences.

Those who have fitted digital read outs for 'X' and 'Y' movement on their milling table can locate the precise position of each bolt hole on the cylinder covers

Well I have to say that after boring something like 20 cylinders since I started in model engineering this latest attempt is by far the best in terms of machining accuracy and surface finish. I put this down to the use of my new boring bar purchased from RDG Tools and used with automatic feed. I finished up with a super smooth bore of 19.50mm - at both ends ! - now there’s a novelty. I believe reaming will be unnecessary and maybe just a little gentle lapping will give me a very serviceable finish.

The next task was to drill the inlet passageways which feed steam (or air) to either end of the bore. It’s no problem tilting the column of my mill to the specified angle of 16.5 degrees but it’s a major undertaking resetting it afterwards (although I have fitted a laser positioning device which alledgedly makes repositioning a doddle).

Instead, I  opt for using a Clarke 2.5″ tilting vice purchased from Machine Mart for £15.  Not the greatest precision instrument you will come across but it does the job. This combined with the clineometer app on my iPod and the required angle is soon sorted. Take great care at this critical stage as it is only too easy to get the airway out of position. When slot drilling the air inlets on the cylinder face I would suggest going a little deeper (from 4.75 to 6mm) which will increase the chance of your airway connecting up with the inlet.

For the cylinder cover bolt holes I followed the plan for the bottom cover with 6 bolt holes but for the top cover I increased the number to 8 which, in my view, looks more authentic in my larger sized interpretation of Elmer’s engine.

You may find this   free bolt circle calculator of assistance during this next stage.

remember, you can click on each photograph for an enlarged image

It occurs to me that my descriptions may not be too clear to some.  If anyone would like me to expand on any points on this, or any other posting, just drop me an email at john(spam)@start-model-engineering.co.uk removing ‘you know which bit’ from my email addy. Please remember I am not an experienced model engineer and my methods may not be the correct way of doing things.

Whilst it was away I fabricated the eccentric strap and the two movement support arms. I became so immersed in machining that progress photographs were forgotten - sorry about that.  My first attempt at making the eccentric strap was consigned to the scrap box but I was reasonably satisfied with my second effort.

Today I have made a start on the heart of the engine - the cylinder block. There is a big investment in both material and time so I am proceeding with extreme caution. Here is how this mornings workshop activity has proceeded.

The basic frame for Elmers #32 vertical engine now completed and awaiting a visit to the paint shop.

I am the first to admit that of late activity in the workshop has been almost non existent apart from a brief excursion into making acrylic torches and pens which some might argue is not proper model engineering.

My last major project was the Opus Proximus vertical engine the plans for which appeared in Model Engineer. Despite considerable effort on my part it still doesn’t run and has been deposited in my non-runner gallery which fortunately doesn’t include too many abandoned projects.

Anyway, onwards and upwards and after lengthy procrastination I have started building Elmer’s #32 Open Column vertical engine which is a similar engine to the Opus Proximus but one which I feel more confident will perform as Elmer planned.  I have decided to build this 50% larger than plan. I made a similar decision when I built Elmer’s #33 Mill Engine and that turned out to be one of the best running engines I have ever built. It is no more difficult to build than building to size but it does allow you to add extra detail such as split bearing holders and more bolts in the steam chest - looks so much more authentic. It clearly costs more for materials but compared with the number of hours involved this is fairly insignificant.

I ordered the basic materials from M-Machine in Darlington, you will find a link to their website under Resources on this site. As I find cutting thick plate metals an irksome task M-Machine cut the baseplate and platform to finished size.

Incidentally they cut rather than guillotine which can leave a slightly deformed or rounded edge.

Torch Variation

A new treatment of Ralph's torches adds a touch of glamour to the little brass torches.

I’ve been pondering for a while on the possibility of making ‘Divided-Heads’ mini torches in Acrylic but was not too sure if I could cut threads in the acrylic material. In addition, on the originals, the brass body is relied upon as a conductor and forms part of the electrical circuitry.

In practice I avoided both potential problems by retaining brass for the internal workings and simply added an acrylic coat to the torch.

A visit to a local woodworker supplier revealed a range of Acrylic offcuts which are mainly intended for pen making enthusiasts who turn the barrels for their pens on woodworking type lathes.

Any concern about machining my torch barrels on a metal working lathe were unfounded in fact the Acrylic turned beautifully although care was needed when drilling as it is very easy to melt the plastic.

I am now preparing dimensioned sketches prior to making a batch of Acrylic torches for family and friends.

My latest in a long line of candidates for the role of compressor to power my model steam engines at steam fairs and rallies.

Is this THE compressor I have been looking for ?

I sincerely hope so - I hate to think of just how much I have spent trying to find the ideal air compressor to run my small model steam engines.

The first was too noisy and too heavy to be transportable. The second, advertised as being quiet, wasn’t. The third was quiet but was only adequate to power one small free running wobbler. The fourth was also quiet and could manage two wobblers.

I did make a virtually silent compressor from a disused ‘fridge pump but that was limited on air volume and a bit heavy to move around.

What I want is an air compressor that will power at least four of my engines simultaneously when I attend steam fairs and suchlike and one that I can lift in and out of the car without bringing on another bout of sciatica. Oh, and it has to be up to running for extended periods and not make too much noise.

My latest aquisition is a ‘Sprayit’ air compressor by Thomas Industries, Inc., Sheboygan, Wis. As you may have already guessed they were produced for paint spraying and whilst they are no longer in production they do turn up on ebay and car boot sales from time to time.

A display of finished acrylic torches plus a couple of ealier brass versions.

My original feature courtesy of ‘Divided Head’ (aka Ralph), on mini brass torches has attracted nearly as much interest as the building of steam engines and it’s easy to see why.

They are a fun way to gain experience on the lathe, turning, facing and cutting threads using taps and dies. Then over to the polisher for the application of the obligatory dose of bling They also lend themselves to personal interpretation so you can release your creative talents and really go for it. The little mini-torches are also popular with the laydees and make welcome little gifts for family and friends.

This post is all about a new slant on the mini torch. Whilst retaining the tried and tested basic design this opens up a new field of design by producing an outer shell in acrylic. Acrylic blanks used for amateur pen making are readily available and they come in a wide range of colours and patterns. Acrylic is easy to machine on the lathe - fast speeds and slow feed is the order of the day when turning and facing. For drilling, slow speeds and slow feed will help to avoid meltdown through excessive heat.

Encouraged by my first prototype I decided to go for a short production run of six torches in the hope that the economies in setting up time would show time saving per unit. Whilst working to set dimensions I wanted to change the outer appearance of the torches by using a variety of acrylic finishes.

The Argus double acting oscillating steam angine, a first project for newcomer to model engineering by Australian Pete Harding from Western Perth. Pete explains that there is still a little finishing and a base to make but it sure is looking good.

Australian, Peter Harding of West Perth, has been a regular visitor to this site for some time and has recently completed his first build - The Argus double acting oscillating engine designed by Edgar T Westbury. The plans are featured in The Best of Model Engineer, Volume 1 along with comprehensive built notes.

Pete showed great ingenuity in modifying his third attempt at making the cylinder rather than starting all over. Errors can happen all the time, even with experienced model engineers and it’s how we deal with them and the final result that really matters.

Anyway, here is the email Peter sent me recently

Having left a comment on the Opus P page a while ago you asked if I would send a picture of the Oscillator when finished. Please find attached.

As I stated in the comment this is my first project on my first lathe - last used one at high school a long time ago! The build has, needless to say, not been without error, but highly satisfying. I stuffed one cylinder up on trying to mill a flat for the valve plate - they sure fly well - and another on my first attempt of Silver Soldering. This engine uses the third cylinder made. Interestingly I reckon it took around 30 hours for the first cylinder and 3 hours for the third!

The only major mistake still left on the engine is the additional 1/16″ valve plate at the back of the 1/8″ one. I had already silver soldered the cylinder and valve plate together and it was only on final assembly that I realized that something was wrong - I could just see the edges of the inlet and exhaust holes when the cylinder was vertical. I had mis-read the plan and made the valve plate 3/8″ wide instead of 5/8″ ! Luckily there was just enough length in the crank pin to allow the adding of the 1/16th plate of the correct width without having to make a forth cylinder.

I still have some final polishing to do and final mounting on a plinth but thought you would like an early report. Please feel free to post with comments about errors - that how we learn.

How is the Opus P going by the way - are you getting closer to having it working. Once I have tidied my shed up a bit I will be starting the Suum Cuique, hopefully with less hassles than you’ve had with Opus P.

Peter Harding

In practice I avoided both potential problems by retaining brass for the internal workings and simply added an acrylic coat to the torch.

A visit to a local woodworker supplier revealed a range of Acrylic offcuts which are mainly intended for pen making enthusiasts who turn the barrels for their pens on woodworking type lathes.

Any concern about machining my torch barrels on a metal working lathe were unfounded in fact the Acrylic turned beautifully although care was needed when drilling as it is very easy to melt the plastic.

I am now preparing dimensioned sketches prior to making a batch of Acrylic torches for family and friends.