This is a random collection of ideas, hints and tips gathered over the last couple of years which will hopefully be of interest to those starting out in model engineering.
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- When building model steam engines use studding rather than screws or bolts. You will have fewer problems with stripped threads and a more authentic appearance.
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- On critical size holes choose a drill bit 5% to 10% less than specified as holes inevitably are slightly larger than you may expect due to chuck run-out.
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- Use WD40 or parafin as a cutting lubricant and coolant when drilling aluminium. In my case WD40 induces eczema on my hands so I apply with a brush.
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- Use a broad felt tipped marker pen when marking out. When working with aluminium prick out hole centres before drilling as WD40 will wash off your marker ink.
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- Buy yourself a copy of Model Engineers Handbook and encapsulate photo copies of useful data charts. I rely on the imperial/metric chart conversion chart on a daily basis.
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- Enlarge A4 plans to A3 and hang on trouser hangers. If converting say Elmer’s plans into metric Tipex out all Imperial dimensions and replace with metric equivalents.
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- Do take the time to make a carriage stop for your mini-lathe – a great aid to accuracy and repeatability. You’ll wonder how you ever managed without one.
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- Making identical length components is more difficult than you might think unless you make a backstop to fit in your mini-lathe headstock.
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- Use special high pressure cutting oil when tapping threads to reduce the danger of ruining your workpiece with an imovable broken tap.
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- Never have rags anywhere near your lathe, mill or any other form of rotating machinery – your hand can be pulled in within an instant. Kitchen paper towels are a safer bet.
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- On a similar note don’t develop the habit of leaving the chuck key in the chuck while your attention is drawn to something else. You don’t want to be in the line of a flying chuck key.
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- Use fine grade emery pads or cut up pieces of abrasive Scotchpads for cleaning up, smoothing off and fine deburring of workpieces in the lathe.
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- Remove all surface scratches with fine wet and dry before attempting to finish on the polisher. I have had particularly good success using garnett paper from my local woodwork supplier.
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- Use brake and clutch cleaner fluid for degreasing components – appears to have similar cleaning and quick drying properties as tricoethylene which is now no longer available.
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- Consider increasing plan dimensions by 50% or even 100% to give you a bigger and more impressive engine for no extra effort. Presents a good opportunity to add extra detailing.
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- Use silicone tubing for connecting up air supply from compressor to your engines. Ebay has a number of suppliers. I keep a stock of 2,3 and 4mm ID sizes.
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- Aquarium suppliers are a good source of inexpensive miniature air valves and manifolds for organising air control systems to your engines.
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- Another note on safety. Do stop working when you start to feel tired. This reduces the possibility of injuring yourself and avoids messing up your days efforts.
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- Take the occasional diversion from a long term project by taking on a ‘quickie’ engine build for the buzz you always get when a new engine springs into life.
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- Unless you are skilled in resharpening dulled drill bits and cutters dispose of them rather than putting them back in the rack. Accept that they don’t last for ever !
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- Glanze lathe tools may seem expensive but do treat yourself to at least a left hand cutter (I use mine for 90% of all turning and facing operations)- it will transform your machining success and surface finish.
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- Use drill bits for holes up to 10mm, beyond that you will need a boring head set. Get a 2 Morse Taper for use on your lathe and an extra 3 Morse Taper shank for your mill (check your machine specs before ordering)
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- Make washers and gaskets from PTFE sheet for steam chests, cylinder head seals and pipe unions. A perfect seal without overtightening which can so easily lead to stripped threads.
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- Use the tang on your digital vernier scale to read the depth of internal bores. Check depth when boring blind holes.
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- Mount tap in lathe tailstock chuck and start thread by turning headstock chuck by hand for accurate alignment.
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- Use a die holder in the tailstock of your mini-lathe for accurate alignment when thread cutting.
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- Ensure your machine vice is square on to the table of your milling machine with the aid of a DTI (dial test indicator).
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- Also use your DTI to ensure that the level of your machine vice is square to the column.
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- Insert shims under machine vice to correct any inaccuracy in level.
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- Cast your name with pride – use individual plastic letters available from your local model railway shop.
Hi Richard, if you come back here, there is a book that will help a great deal with this problem. You need to get a copy of “The Model Engineers Workshop Manual” by George H Thomas. It’s largely based on numerous article George wrote for ‘Model Engineer’ magazine and is edited by William Bennett and published by Tee publishing in 1992. ISBN 1-85761-000-8. The book is comprehensively indexed and cross referenced. Chapter 7 provides comprehensive guidance on making and using boring tools – including for holes from 3/8 inch downwards. , Chapter 5 covers parting off, chapter 9 is about Drilling Cross holes, Chapter 10 is on Deep Drilling and Chapter 27 explains how to grind lathe tools, to name just a few. The late George Thomas was one of the Model Engineers Guru’s and I can’t recommend this book highly enough to you. The book was put together after his death as a tribute to him. George does n’t just tell you to do things – I’ll quote from the introduction “GHT would never say ‘Now turn a morse taper’, but would show how to turn the taper even going back as far as preparing the top slide for easy movement and how to apply a balanced couple”. It’s a well written book, with some amusing puns dotted here and there, and one of the great “Bibles” for model engineers of all levels. Good luck with the hobby. Bob
Question for you: All I have are the 5/16 HSS bits for my 7X14 Speedway lathe. I would like to make small parts such as boiler fittings and engines, but am not sure how to grind the bits for miniature work in Aluminum and Brass. May I request your advise? Thank you.
Richard White
Hello Richard
Whilst I had a certain degree of success in grinding my own cutting tools I discovered fairly early on that indexable cutters of the type made by Glanze made life so much easier that to be honest I have never truly mastered the art of grinding my own cutting tools. If you have a look here you will see the sort of tools I mean. Sorry I can’t be of more help.
John