The 'Conquest' mini-lathe from Chester Tools
The ‘Conquest’ from Chester Tools, shown above, is a good example of the current generation of well specified mini-lathes.
With the introduction of the mini-lathe the whole business of setting up a home workshop has become a much more attractive proposition. In pre mini-lathe days you had to be firmly committed to part with several thousand pounds to buy your ‘Myford’ lathe and its associated tooling. Today you can buy a mini-lathe from between £300 to £450, depending on specification and branding. Allow another £150 for a couple of 4 jaw chucks, some decent indexable cutting tools and other sundry items and you are up and running.
Not only is lathe ownership much less expensive these days but the introduction of electronic control and variable speed motors has added greater convenience and removed all the hassle of belt adjustment.
With virtually no knowledge or engineering experience I bought my first mini-lathe from an on line eBay shop. A slight problem with the push button start switch was remedied from the supplier by return post and other than that my first mini-lathe served me well. I put it back on eBay and very nearly recouped my original investment. It was only my urge for something ‘bigger and better’ and tempted by a ‘special offer’ from Chester Tools that I recently upgraded to a slightly larger mini-lathe. Now, with the benefit of a little experience, I would not buy secondhand, unless you are aware of the lathe’s history. Nor would I buy ‘on the high street’ where you could well pay more for a lesser machine.
If you are able to attend one of the model engineering shows (see diary page) you may be able to pick up a ‘show bargain’. Your visit will also provide the opportunity to compare makes and models and discuss your requirements with the supplier. Though at first all lathes will appear to be pretty much the same – the prices will rise for bigger and more powerful machines. My personal view is that you are unlikely to go far wrong in selecting your mini-lathe but do check on warranties, just in case.
Metric or Imperial ?
When choosing a lathe you will need to decide whether to opt for metric or imperial calibrations. My personal advice would be to go for metric. Although brought up in the imperial days I decided on metric for two reasons – calculations are easier and there is a better choice of materials (metal stock) and fasteners (screws, nuts and bolts).
I would suggest that the following items are pretty much essential.
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- A self centering 4 jaw chuck for holding square material
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- I find that most of my turning and facing requirements are catered for with the SCLCR tool and the S06 F SCLCR boring bar though there are times when you will be pleased to have the full set at hand.
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- Glanze turning tool set perfect for the mini-lathe
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- Set of 7 Glanze Indexable Lathe Tools with 10mm square shank and taking standard CCMT inserts
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- Glanze clamp type indexable parting tool with 10mm shank (angled to give you a better view)
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- A quick change tool post (QCTP) is a quick and easy way to change tools avoiding the hassle of using spacers and shims to present the tip cutter at the correct height
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- A good set of HSS drill bits and a 0-13mm chuck for the tailpost
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- A traditional style toolmakers chest will provide ideal storage and protection for your cutters and small tools.
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- A 4 jaw independent chuck used mainly for ‘off centre’ machining
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- The pair of 4 jaw chucks used by John S on his mini-lathe
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- You can avoid the need to grind your own tool tips by using cutters with replaceable cutting tips
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- A dial test indicator (DTI) essential for accurate positioning of workpiece in independent 4 jaw chuck
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- A tailstock chuck has a variety of applications used here to hold a thread cutting tap
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- A tailstock die holder ensures correct alignment of thread on the workpiece
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- A revolving tailstock centre steadies longer work pieces whilst being turned in the lathe
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- A quick change tool post is a worthwhile addition for convenience when changing cutters
Four Jaw Chucks
Essential for holding work of an irregular shape or for turning work off centre. Not quite so essential to begin with is a 4 jaw self centering chuck for holding square material. So if you are adding a 4 jaw chuck to your order make sure it is the independent jaw type – I got it wrong when I ordered my mini-lathe.
QCTP – quick change tool post
A quick change tool post. Not strictly necessary as you will be supplied with a holder for your cutting tools. However a quick change toolpost does make life a lot easier when switching between different cutters. Not only can tools be changed quickly they can also be pre-set to the correct height in relation to the workpiece – crucial for efficient turning, facing and parting operations.
Cutting Tools
A set of indexable cutting tools. These are to replace the carbide tipped set normally supplied with most lathes. Whilst it is common practice for experienced engineers to grind tools to the required cutting profiles, for anyone starting out on machining it does make life much easier and increases the chance of success if you use cutting tools with replaceable, ready to use, cutting tips. You will have enough to learn at first without getting bogged down with the grinding and sharpening of cutting tools.
Tailstock Chuck
Required when you need to centre drill the workpiece in the chuck and form a thread.
Tailstock Revolving Centre
Steadies and supports longer workpieces.
One feature that’s is usually highlighted in the machines specification is the screwcutting ability. Cutting screw threads on a lathe is, in my view, a rather complex procedure which I don’t feel you should need to be too concerned about initially. I have managed perfectly well up to now using taps and dies mounted in the tailstock.
Hello,
I’m in the market for a mini lathe also. Am I right in observing that the trend is towards belt driven/variable speed lathes instead of multiple gear changing ? Is there any difference in using dc brushless motors as distinct from standard ac induction motors.?
Portability is vital to me – I have a small workshop and don’t want to have to use a forklift. ! Can I ask what you consider is the maximum weight that could be handled by a single person. ?
Hi Brian
Yes Brian you are quite correct in that most mini-lathes are belt driven with a lever to switch between two settings, high and low. Running speed is then via a variable electronic control usually a digital display showing r.p.m.
A typical mini-lathe weighs around 38 kg and is just about ‘liftable’ by an average person though to be honest I doubt if I could lift that today.
I suggest you take a look at Chester Tools ‘Conquest’ mini-lathe, the specification will answer many of your questions.
John
I’ve been looking into buying a mini lathe, and the more I look the more it’s putting me off. I am a Hydraulic Engineer in the offshore drilling industry so I am not without some mechanical skills, but I look at some sites and it recommends that the lathe is stripped down to the bare bones, even circuit boards removed, bearings replaced and backlash on the gears adjusted. Others say it can be used virtually straight from the box.
Maybe I’m looking into it to much, my head feels like its about to explode.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Alan
Hi Alan
I can sympathise with your dilemma, I recall being in a similar confused state when I was buying my first mini-lathe.
In my case I bought my first mini-lathe from Amadeal (you’ll find a link to their website under ‘Resources’ on my site). All I did was clean up transportation wax from the slideways and that was pretty much it. No doubt the purists would advocate a full strip down but in my opinion this is over the top for most hobbyists.
Another option would be to buy a fully prepared lathe from Arc Euro Trade – full details are here though I understand there is a temporary delay but it may be worth giving them a call.
I hope this is of some help.
John
where are the model engineering events where you can see mini laithes and get good deals on price as you mentioned in this letter do not buy from high street.
I cannot find and outlet that even suppplies chester laithes in north west of england please please help
Hi Peter
There are something like half a dozen model engineering shows per year. The next being The Midlands Model Engineering Exhibition which is being held at The Warwickshire Exhibition Centre Oct 14th – Oct 18th. The most northerly show is at Harrogate in May. A quick ‘Google’ will find them all for you.
The main importer/suppliers, who are listed on my website under Resources/Links, sell direct from their own industrial style premises and not through high street shops. There are a number of national chains of general tool suppliers who stock mini-lathes but in my experience they are expensive compared with the main players.
One of your options if you are in the North West is to visit Chester Tools – give them a ring and go along and see them. You will be able to see and ask questions about the mini-lathe and the chances are they may be able to do you some sort of deal.
I bought my first mini-lathe ‘blind on ebay’ from Hugh at London based Amadeal. The service both before and after sale was excellent. Have a look at his mini-lathe on their website and I think you will find his prices compare very favourably with the competition. With virtually no experience or knowledge at the time I bought from Hugh I suppose some may say I took a gamble but it worked out fine for me and I hear nothing but praise for this supplier.
John
Aleks,
I have a 12″ x 36″ lathe, in fact the Chester Crusader.
If I want to turn that size of component it does require a little practice in getting the cutting tool tip to reach the very edge of the work.
What really does help is a quick change toolpost or a toolholder that will sit parallel to the work face, then you mount up a left hand cutting tool so that the tip reaches the outside edge. Then cut away as normal, but do remember, the bigger you go the slower you run the machine otherwise you can easily exceed the cutting speed for the material. In fact, if you tried to cut a 5″ diameter with your lathe, you might find it easy to stall the motor and you may well have to reduce the cut to get it running again.
If the spec says your lathe will cut up to 5″ then you can guarantee it can do it, just you may have to play about a bit to find out how to do it.
John
John
I have been using lathes for some 40yrs so cutting speed, depth etc. is not the problem. I have as yet to find anyone that states the max. size that can be turned. Unfortunately I made a presumption based on the swing over bed dim. The only way to find the distance from centre to tool head is to phone & ask. Warco have been very helpful, went & measured them & suggested taking the lathe back to see which one would be suitable & they will do a good deal on an upgrade. However, emailing the other companies for the max. size that can be turned has been a pointless task. Where have the old boys gone who knew what they were talking about?
Aleks
I am pleased to learn you have had some positive assistance from Warco.
John
Hi John
Thanks for a very informative site.
The problem I am having is trying to find out the maximum size that can be turned on a particular lathe. Although swing over the bed & cross slide dims. are given, there is no mention of the distance from center to tool head, the only measurement that will tell you the maximum size that can be turned after allowing for tooling. It seems to be impossible to get this information from suppliers.
After struggling to get much help from Chester (there website isn’t much better) & Axminster Tools, who also have a good range of lathes, I bought the Warco mini lathe. However, after gleefully unpacking, positioning & cleaning it, my flabber had never been so ghasted when I found that it is a struggle to machine anything over 50mm dia. on a machine with 100mm swing over the cross slide! So where do I glean this information from when reading the specifications? Isn’t this the most critical factor when choosing a lathe?
Ta, Aleks
Hi Aleks
You have raised a very important issue which in my (limited) experience does require a response from the suppliers of mini-lathes. Like you I would have assumed that the limit on the diameter which can be turned was set by the swing over the bed. If the deciding factor is the max distance the tip of a cutting tool can be retracted then I agree this is a more significant dimension and should be clearly stated. Presumably you have spoken to Warco and my feeling is that they should either take your machine back for a full refund on the grounds of ‘not fit for purpose’ or upgrade your machine to one that is capable of turning the size implied in their specification.
I will seek other more informed opinions on this issue and meanwhile thank you for bringing this anomaly to my attention.
John
sorted
Hi John I have just bought the Chester DB8V but it will not stay on when i push the start button . cannot find any reason for this can you help? just open the box today and Chester is not open Saturdays sounds like a faulty switch ?
Hi Dave
Sounds to me as though you may be trying to run it with the chuck cover raised. When the cover is lowered this completes the electrical circuit and should start. If this doesn’t sort it then you will have to speak to Chester on Monday. Let me know how you get on.
John
I hope you will be as happy with your DB8V as I have been with mine !
Hi
I bought a DB8 about 2004 but did not use it much. I thought it OK but it lacked a number of things I used to find usefull on my older Portas, namely a reverse for the lead screw and the lack of a handle on the lead screw, I also think the min speed is too high for screw cutting up to the chuck.
I recently made a lead screw reverse using the spare 40 tooth idler and the 33 tooth change wheel because it does not seem to be much used in common metric threads. this now makes screw cutting safer because I can cut away from the stock. The change in direction needs a spanner but only one bolt needs altering so it is quite a usefull mod.Its also quite crude and easy to fabricate.
Danny Lee
Hi John,
Oh dear, I knew that this would happen! Now I am becoming more enthused I am casting the net wider and have plunged into the “brand new import vs old British” lathe discussion, ie should I also look at Boxford, Harrison Smart and Brown etc… I appreciate your comments about buying new but for the same money one can purchase a lot more lathe that, when new, would have cost £000′s.
Do I, or will I ever need the extra offered by these bigger, heavier machines? sigh…questions questions…
I have some more comments re learning but I think that they would be better on you general forum so I will hightail it there…
Any comments appreciated.
John
Hi John
This is an easy one to advise you on. Buy a brand new import every time and avoid a shed load of problems. The quality and precision of Chinese imports have come on leaps and bounds over recent years and your machine will come with some form of warranty. Unless you have the experience to appraise a used lathe keep well clear. No doubt there are some excellent used Myfords and the like out there but could you tell a good one from a pile of junk ? Other considerations are the cost of spares and accessories, the availability of metric machines, attributes such as variable speed drives and reverse running.
John
John,
Thanks for the reply. If I am honest, like most technically based things, the choice of lathe is a bewildering one for the newcomer.
I am inclined to “get the best I can” from the start and I suppose that it would be better to err on the large side too.
When you look at the options there are so many! The machines all seem to be made in China and the differences seem to be more to do with the package and service offered by the local dealer than technical or quality variations in the machines?
I see that there is a big Chester/Warco debate (and to a lesser extent Machine Mart who seem to be priced high).
Within the Chester range, the Comet, 920 and DB-8V seem to be in the same price bracket so why choose which one?
Sorry if these questions are a little naive and thanks again for the help
John
Hi there, what an excellent site – thank God for people like you!
I am looking to buy a lathe. I am new to the hobby though I have been model making in various forms for years.
I would really appreciate your advice, I have up to £800 to spend and looking at Chester’s site there are a few machines in that range.
With the experience that you have which would you choose?
Thanks in advance
John
Hi John
I originally started with a lathe similar to the Chester Conquest and moved up to a Chester DB8V after a couple of years with which I am very satisfied and meets my needs completely. To be honest my experience does not go much beyond that but I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending the DB8V and it is a definite step up from the basic mini-lathe. Chuck sizes go up from 80mm to 100mm and as a consequence are much heavier, this combined with the more powerful motor gives a real robustness to machining operations. This is just one of the obvious benefits and the whole machine feels more solid. I did struggle with parting off operations with my first lathe but these difficulties disappeared with the larger mor powerful lathe. Note that Chester’s prices are ex VAT but put a call in to Gareth Rimmer, there may be a deal to be done ! Let me know if you think I can help any further.
John
I was a Capstan Lathe setter for about 10 years, in the ’80s -one of Maggie’s retrainees – but was made redundant. By that time C.N.C. had taken over, and Capstans as I knew them, were obsolete. Now I have retired from active work, due to ill-health, I would like to take up model engineering as a hobby. Any advice would be welcome. I’m by no means well off, but I could afford a few hundred pounds to get started.
Hello Patrick and welcome aboard.
I think you will find much of interest on this site which was set up to assist people like yourself who are considering model engineering as a hobby. If you go to my home page there is a guide to the sort of costs involved in getting up and running. There are also links to one or two trusted machinery suppliers that you might find useful. If you have any specific queries I will do my best to answer them.
Meanwhile best wishes and I look forward to hearing how you progress.
John