Mini Lathe
The 'Conquest' mini-lathe from Chester Tools
The ‘Conquest’ from Chester Tools, shown above, is a good example of the current generation of well specified mini-lathes.
With the introduction of the mini-lathe the whole business of setting up a home workshop has become a much more attractive proposition. In pre mini-lathe days you had to be firmly committed to part with several thousand pounds to buy your ‘Myford’ lathe and its associated tooling. Today you can buy a mini-lathe from between £300 to £450, depending on specification and branding. Allow another £150 for a couple of 4 jaw chucks, some decent indexable cutting tools and other sundry items and you are up and running.
Not only is lathe ownership much less expensive these days but the introduction of electronic control and variable speed motors has added greater convenience and removed all the hassle of belt adjustment.
With virtually no knowledge or engineering experience I bought my first mini-lathe from an on line eBay shop. A slight problem with the push button start switch was remedied from the supplier by return post and other than that my first mini-lathe served me well. I put it back on eBay and very nearly recouped my original investment. It was only my urge for something ‘bigger and better’ and tempted by a ’special offer’ from Chester Tools that I recently upgraded to a slightly larger mini-lathe. Now, with the benefit of a little experience, I would not buy secondhand, unless you are aware of the lathe’s history. Nor would I buy ‘on the high street’ where you could well pay more for a lesser machine.
If you are able to attend one of the model engineering shows (see diary page) you may be able to pick up a ‘show bargain’. Your visit will also provide the opportunity to compare makes and models and discuss your requirements with the supplier. Though at first all lathes will appear to be pretty much the same - the prices will rise for bigger and more powerful machines. My personal view is that you are unlikely to go far wrong in selecting your mini-lathe but do check on warranties, just in case.
Metric or Imperial ?
When choosing a lathe you will need to decide whether to opt for metric or imperial calibrations. My personal advice would be to go for metric. Although brought up in the imperial days I decided on metric for two reasons - calculations are easier and there is a better choice of materials (metal stock) and fasteners (screws, nuts and bolts).
I would suggest that the following items are pretty much essential.
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- A self centering 4 jaw chuck for holding square material
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- A 4 jaw independent chuck used mainly for 'off centre' machining
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- The pair of 4 jaw chucks used by John S on his mini-lathe
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- You can avoid the need to grind your own tool tips by using cutters with replaceable cutting tips
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- A dial test indicator (DTI) essential for accurate positioning of workpiece in independent 4 jaw chuck
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- A tailstock chuck has a variety of applications used here to hold a thread cutting tap
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- A tailstock die holder ensures correct alignment of thread on the workpiece
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- A revolving tailstock centre steadies longer work pieces whilst being turned in the lathe
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- A quick change tool post is a worthwhile addition for convenience when changing cutters
Four Jaw Chucks
Essential for holding work of an irregular shape or for turning work off centre. Not quite so essential to begin with is a 4 jaw self centering chuck for holding square material. So if you are adding a 4 jaw chuck to your order make sure it is the independent jaw type - I got it wrong when I ordered my mini-lathe.
QCTP - quick change tool post
A quick change tool post. Not strictly necessary as you will be supplied with a holder for your cutting tools. However a quick change toolpost does make life a lot easier when switching between different cutters. Not only can tools be changed quickly they can also be pre-set to the correct height in relation to the workpiece - crucial for efficient turning, facing and parting operations.
Cutting Tools
A set of indexable cutting tools. These are to replace the carbide tipped set normally supplied with most lathes. Whilst it is common practice for experienced engineers to grind tools to the required cutting profiles, for anyone starting out on machining it does make life much easier and increases the chance of success if you use cutting tools with replaceable, ready to use, cutting tips. You will have enough to learn at first without getting bogged down with the grinding and sharpening of cutting tools.
Tailstock Chuck
Required when you need to centre drill the workpiece in the chuck and form a thread.
Tailstock Revolving Centre
Steadies and supports longer workpieces.
One feature that’s is usually highlighted in the machines specification is the screwcutting ability. Cutting screw threads on a lathe is, in my view, a rather complex procedure which I don’t feel you should need to be too concerned about initially. I have managed perfectly well up to now using taps and dies mounted in the tailstock.