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A mini project for your mini-lathe

Polish up your turning skills with this novel brass torch

Create your own shape and choose the colour for your LED and make one or two for your friends

Create your own shape and choose the colour for your LED and make one or two for your friends

There are two famous people in Wales and they both play billiards. The first is a chap called Terry something-or-other and he is renowned for his ability to send even the most ardent insomniac into a deep and blissful sleep on a Sunday afternoon.

The other chap is called Ralph. He’s also known as ‘Divided Head’ - I am not too sure why but I suspect it may have something to do with an incident involving an up and over garage door.

Recently Ralph caused outrage amongst certain old school model engineers when he revealed his lathe mounted mop polisher.

Any road up Ralph has unselfishly agreed to disclose his method of making little brass torches. I am ignoring the fact that my local petrol station is currently offering an impressive looking multi bulb LED torch for a mere £2.50. Ralph’s torches are truly little gems and make lovely gifts for family and friends. Not only that but they are fun to make and provide an opportunity to hone your turning skills and demonstrate your creative talents.

So, without further ado lets get the boys on the baize.

Ralph has produced this excellent series of 4 videos with step by step build notes to guide you through the construction but before you sit back and enjoy here is a cut away sketch showing the various components.

A cut away sketch showing the components and assembly

A cut away sketch showing the components and assembly

Video 1

1/ Cut length of 1/2″ hex or 9/16″ round brass bar to be finished to 25mm length. Round bar at 1/2″ will show thread cut on outside and can be hard to get rid of. That’s if it doesn’t tear through the side ! 9/16″ bar allows a quick lateral turning with the cap blank screwed tight so it mates perfectly.(before the cap is cut and shaped!) Hex shows thread slightly but a light draw filing or lapping sorts this.

2/Face off both ends.
3/Centre drill.
4/Using 5mm drill, drill through bar.(assuming you have purchased 5mm blue, red, white or green LED?… else a 3mm or 8mm led could be used, depending on power requirements?)

5/Using 10.5mm drill (prepared for brass if possible.) make a 16mm deep hole for the innards of the torch. Tap the body with a M12×1.5 thread (I always bottom the tap out.)
Cut a recess for the O ring (see video/Crap-O-cad) Just removing the thread should give sufficient space for the main O ring to sit. ( Run the tap back through to chase/clean up thread. remove thread burrs.)

6/ Remove the main body and place to one side. take another length of bar at least long enough to get a parting tool into once it has been cross drilled….see video1. Turn down to 12mm dia and at least 9mm length.

7/Cut M12×1.5 thread onto remaining turned section.

8/Using parting tool cut recess into turned section at base. (approx 1-1.5mm deep depending on the ‘O’ ring you have selected for the seal)

(you could do parts 7 and 8 in reverse order … It wouldn’t alter the outcome)

9/Test fit main body. If a hex bar is used and you want it to line up perfectly then a bit of fine skimming work on the main body length will probably be needed (unless you’re lucky)
(The pattern is usually a little off when fully tight, a bit of draw filing or flatting of each of the sides once the torch is completed will true up the pattern enough to fool most eyes.
If your not too fussed… Like in the video, then leave it!
The torch when off will be where you set it… lined up if you want it that way, and when it’s on it’ll be where ever it is…. Up to you what you want it to finish like.


Video 2

10/ Cut a length of thin plastic (packaging like you get paint brushes/batteries etc in is good for this, thin but stiff when cut into a strip. Thickness of plastic must be assessed as slight thickness variations could prevent the batteries from being easily inserted and removed !
I pull the plastic hard over a thin round bar, causing it to curve and hold that shape. Trim the plastic to length and depth.
Depth of plastic shown is in drawing. It is the height of the two cells stacked. It has to prevent the outer body of the battery/cells from touching the inner of the torch body. Insert the plastic when ready, check for overlap or not enough coverage.
Trim small slices until you get it just touching when fitted.

11/ Check LED polarity, easy way, touch the leads onto the poles of one of the cells (if you’re using the 3V ones specified) alternatively you could use a meter or search for data on the web to identify the Cathode and Anode.

12/ Cut a disc of plastic rod 1.5-2mm thick 10.3mm dia and drill a 1mm hole 2mm off centre for the LED negative leg. The negative leg is then passed through the hole and cut to allow 3-4mm to protrude. This is then folded across the centre of the disc. (see video)

13/ Bend the positive leg flat horizontally to the opposite side of the disc. Bend the leg up around the edge of the disc (keeping it tight to the disc) Cut the leg to length, level with the top of the disc (any higher and it might short circuit the cells!…. See video)

14/ Insert the completed LED assembly into the main body of the torch and push the led home. This may need a bit of a shove…. Try not to damage the LED or it’s legs!

15/Insert the insulator strip.

16/ Insert 2x cr927 lithium cell battery’s negative end first and keeping the torch pointing downwards screw the threaded section into the body till the LED illuminates..

17/ The LED will illuminate before the cap is all the way home. Check with a vernier or similar, the gap left between the cap and body sections.
(This is all done because there are always variables, from slightly less or greater depths when drilling to LED legs and exact insulator disc depths….. This is a very adjustable design)

Continue reading A mini project for your mini-lathe

Model Engineering USA

Machinistblog.com

Here is an excellent model engineering website from Rob Roll of Rochester, NY in the States that is well worth a visit. There is much information that will be of great interest to enthusiasts both newbies and the more advanced.

One of the first items to catch my eye were details of a low cost easy to make DRO (digital read out) for the cross slide of the mini-lathe. This must be a great boon when turning stock down to a precise diameter - how many times have I taken a cut too far !

There are some real gems amongst the free engine plans including Bogstandard’s “Paddleduck” Engine. Whether you build the “Paddleduck” or not, load up your printer with fresh ink cartridges and a ream of paper and print out the 113 page tutorial. I had my copy fitted with covers and spiral bound at my local stationers. It is crammed full of really helpful machining techniques with supporting photographs and Bog’s inimitable C-o-C sketches.

Anyway take a look at   Machinistblog.com - I don’t think you will be disappointed .

All in all a positive treasure trove of inspiration, plans and ideas for the model engineering enthusiast.